Square Cut Soul
PHOTOS BY JORDAN RANDALL
In the diverse landscape of Florida pizzerias, where New York slices and Chicago deep-dishes often dominate the conversation thanks in part to the influx of residents from the Northeast and Midwest, there is a distinct, crispy outlier that continues to capture the heart of Polk County more than half a century after it was founded.
J. Burns’ Pizza Shop serves a specific kind of nostalgia — one that is thin, square-cut, and coated in a signature dusting of cornmeal. This is St. Louis-style pizza, a rare find in the Sunshine State, and for owner Hunter Wade, it represents far more than just a culinary curiosity. It is a family legacy reborn.
The J. Burns’ story is one of homecoming. Hunter’s father, Matt, began his journey at the original shop at just 14 years old, staying until the doors closed in the early 90s. The memories of that atmosphere—including the community and the unmistakable crunch of the crust — stayed with the Wade family for decades. In 2011, when the opportunity arose to revive the brand, the Wades jumped. Today, using many of the same recipes that debuted in 1965, the shop remains a sanctuary of consistency in a changing world.
Unlike the floppy, foldable slices of the Northeast, this pizza is built on a crunchy, thin foundation that provides a sturdy base for an array of inventive toppings. While the classic pepperoni remains the shop’s perennial best-seller, the shop has earned a cult following for its specialties. The Chicken Bacon Ranch (CBR) is a crowd favorite, swapping traditional red sauce for a creamy ranch base topped with five cheeses and white meat chicken. Then there is the Taco pizza — a masterclass in “simplicity is strength” — featuring taco meat, a three-cheese blend, and hot sauce, often customized with fresh lettuce and sour cream. For those in the know (which now includes you), the “secret menu” offers the Trever, named after Hunter’s brother. It’s a wild, delicious combination of bacon, pineapple, jalapeños, cream cheese, and BBQ sauce that encapsulates the shop’s “from-scratch” freedom.
Beyond the toppings, J. Burns’ has set a gold standard for inclusivity for pizza lovers who simply can’t do gluten. For customers with conditions like Celiac disease, eating out can feel like a gamble, but Hunter has turned his kitchen into a safe haven. The shop features a dedicated gluten-free menu where nearly every item can be safely prepared with just as much flavor but without gluten. This isn’t just a dietary nod; it’s a logistical feat. The kitchen utilizes separate topping containers, dedicated prep stations and a strict “no open flour” policy to prevent cross-contamination. Every staff member undergoes thorough training to understand the stakes, ensuring that a cauliflower-crust Taco pizza — a local favorite known as the “1-800-Ask-Dave” — is as safe as it is flavorful.
The staff at J. Burns’ are also happy to whip up a fresh salad, a hand built sub, glistening garlic knots or boneless wings.
However, if you ask Hunter Wade what he values most, he won’t point to the oven. He’ll point to the people.
“My favorite part is the employees,” Hunter says, reflecting on the joy of watching young high schoolers mature into college graduates and professionals. This mentorship, combined with the generational bond of seeing former child customers return years later with children of their own, defines the shop’s soul.
In a world of fast food and fleeting trends, J. Burns’ Pizza Shop stands strong — a place where tradition meets taste, and where every square-cut slice is a piece of community history.